Messages posted by : pavelski
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Hopefully the hectic days are over. You have all survived the Christmas rush, the social visits and the ski holidays.
Most of you have sent me messages that you still are alive and interested in the course so on we go! While you were away skiing in the great powder, I have "prepared" the classes with some "spicy" items which you will have to do soon! A small review is needed due to the long time since last class. Remember that we are tuning for recreational skiing. Thus we want to have great glide and protection of our bases. You must learn to observe the results of your actions, for example I am going to ask you to heat up base BEFORE you lay final wax coating. You must observe base on this first pass. You will notice patterns near ski edges which are the result of the ski edges heating up just under the base. This tells you you have correctly heated the base. From now on I will focus on the practical aspects of ski tuning and ask you to read technical papers on several sites that discuss the "theory" behind some of the techniques you will learn. The homework video analysis was to make you realize that you must at all times think of safety! It must come as a second nature to you. Two major accidents can happen. 1. Heat related. Whenever using matches always have a METAL box or container for spent matches. Always have iron resting on ceramic tiles or metal tray. 2, Abrasions & cuts. Most of my accidents were related to this second item. You must hold down the ski on a sturdy bench. There are many ways to do this, from ski vices, to wooden raised beams, to home made platforms. Just make sure the ski is well set on a horizontal platform. Never cut towards hands or body! Never touch hot iron to see if hot. The very best way is to spit on iron with plate facing ceiling like your grandmother did. After 4-5 bounces the spit should disappear if iron is ON correct heat.If at any time smoke occurs lower temp! Never allow iron to smoke wax. Each iron has its own personality. Get to know the correct setting and make mark on tempt. dial for waxing skis. If you bake bread, I am sure you have noticed that your oven is different form another oven and you must adapt your bread baking time if you use another oven. The same is true of irons. I have 5 irons and each has its unique qualities. Get to know your iron on that old ski you have. Soon we will practice many techniques! Once you learn how to effectively use your iron, do not use any other iron. I know what some people will tell you. "You must buy a ski iron, from ski wax companies" because base will burn or delaminate! Not true! If you follow my directions you will never have base problems. I will present the basic procedures to be followed. As you get better, you will discover "adaptations" which might be more efficient. Go ahead use them. I do not have all the answers and the final say on ski tuning. I am sure someone will point out that he/she does this or that differently. There is no one way to undertake ski tuning. What you are going to learn is the Pavel way. In a few years it will become the Dino or Darko way when you prepare the skis for the olympic skiers! We are going to take each tool you have bought and discuss how you should use it. You must get to know the limits of each tool and discover the tools you like to use. We all have our favorites! IRON I assume you have now installed the extension cord. The secret in correct use of the iron is to let wax flow ( not drip) on ski by placing iron vertically so that point is 1- 2" from base. You can control wax flow by pressing wax bar with small surface or large surface . In my case I use 1 kilogram bars and for first pass I use the end of bar, so little wax flows. Once you have cleaned base ( I will tell you later how to do this) you want to "heat" base so that the pores will open very much like when a women gets a "facial"! A hot towel is placed on face. In the case of our skis, this is done by spreading little wax and passing iron back and forth on base. Do not worry about missed areas. Do not worry about imperfect spread. All you want to do is heat up base! Once you see the ski edges patterns on the base, make one slow final pass before now allowing more wax flow! Now you place the larger surface from the wax block on the iron. Do not stop or slow down now. In zig zag motion make a line from tip to tail and back. Quickly let go of wax block , turn iron flat on base and pass iron over base BEFORE wax solidifies. The first time you do this it will be difficult to do so, but you must not allow wax to solidify so all this must be done in a flowing motion. DO NOT stop! Do not press down hard on base. Allow iron to glide over wax and as you get better slowly moved iron back and forth. Never stop on one spot! Just hold iron with two fingers and glide iron over wax. Observe as you glide iron over wax and base that in FRONT of iron is a thin film of liquid wax. Allow wax to solidify on base. You should have a uniform film from tip to tail. Observe base as wax solidifies. You will notice some "strange" effects. Note them and tell me what they are! Here is why you should do your own waxing. In shop they pass skis over heated roller with liquid wax on roller.You get very superficial wax on base surface. By heating base on first pass you have opened the pores and wax has penetrated INTO the base. While you are waiting for wax to solidify, clean iron surface with paper towel. DO NOT place iron flat on work bench since you will get "foreign matter" on surface. Since on first time you will not know how much wax to lay, tape ski edges with masking tape so it will protect bindings. FILES You must learn to file with even gradual overlapping strokes. You must learn to place files on angle to get best "bite". Use that aluminum ceramic edge I asked you to buy and practice on this edge. You will note that if you are not careful, you will "round off" this edge! That is the cardinal sin of beginner tuners! Be very careful not to allow file to fall below side! In other words keep file at 90 degrees from edge! At very end of alu edges now round off 90 degrees. This is your "de-tune" area! Only use files once burrs , dings have been taken out! ( see next tool) DIAMOND STICK or CERAMIC STICK While you are skiing, the ski edges will hit stones and the steel edges will "harden". You must take out these dings with diamond stick since your files will become very dull if you do not. Softly pass stick over all damaged areas. Note*** I keep my diamond stick on me at all times since during my coffee break I will check my edges and take out any dings! Sandpaper You must be at ease to use sandpaper on base. Typically beginner tuners do not want to take out shine on new base. YOU MUST! You must have several grades of sandpaper. 80 - is very rough and rarely used. You will use it to get rust off those old skis you got. I use it at tips (on top) to get all cuts off tip! 180- good to get deep grooves off 200-favorite level for "structuring" base ***Remember rule- wet heavy snow,,,,deeper, wider grooves cold new snow,,,,,,thinner narrower grooves 200+ grit For final structuring and cleaning up Never but never use sandpaper with fingers. Use wood block to get uniform structure. The very best block is from auto body shops. It is a soft rubber block with two sections at each end which allows paper to tuck into slots! We will do many exercises with sand paper If you have bought your old ski, now is the time to take rust off ski edges ( without damaging plastic edges). Have fun! Please do not curse me as you try to get rust off!! TRUE BAR This tool is a must! What is a true bar???? Any metal straight edges about the width of the ski or board! Any machinist will have some. All hardware stores have them. A true bar is your tool to make sure your skis, base and edges are aligned. I will later show you how to use this valuable tool. In fact I have an exercise for you in which you will visit ski shops with your true bar and check NEW skis! 90% of shop staff will not know what you are doing! I am sure you will find new skis that are concave or convex!!!! More tools will be needed but for now let us practice with iron, file and sandpaper. May I suggest you buy some all purpose wax in bars. You do not need ski wax for you to learn how to lay wax. Enjoy yourself! Remember, I want you to tell me what you see after you have laid wax on old ski base and it is solidifying! Watch carefully! |
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Goooba,
The issue you raise about eye protection is very important and few skiers really take it seriously. To answer you questions. Yes you can wear glasses under ski goggles and some goggles have a side insert for this. Just look at the sides where there is some foam ! You will note a narrow valley for the side arms of the glasses. The issue of "fogging" is relevant but more important is the safety issue. I have seen punctured eyes due to regular glasses breaking in a fall! If you can get contact lenses do. I have seen some skiers with very fancy and expensive "designer" sun glasses while skiing. Bad choice. Great to impress others but these break easily and can cut eye, nose and head! The second point is very important. If you wear contact lenses make sure you have goggles that have 99% UV protection lenses since contact lenses act as a magnifying lenses thus increasing the effects of sun rays. Several years ago I was skiing for three weeks in a high altitude glacier and became blind for several days due to strong sun rays and poor goggle lenses.Once you can not see you start to appreciate your eyes! DO NOT buy cheap or "copy" glasses. You will pay more down the road! I only use goggles for snow storms, blizzards, etc... the rest of the time I have a pair of Bollé with 12 different lenses for various conditions. It amazes me that in cloudless skies with strong sun shining skiers still wearing ski goggles. Too hot. Poor protection ! All serious skiers should have two options; goggles ( clear or yellow ) and ski glasses with at least 3 lenses. In my opinion it is not necessary to get goggles with dark lenses since when there is strong sun you choose ski glasses. If you do wear contact lenses ALWAYS have a spare lens with you. It is no joke skiing with one eye!!! Also have a small "tear lubricant" with you! Your eyes tend to "dry up" in high altitudes! I modified my glasses by installing side blinders very much like the horse blinders (see old skiers for explanation of horse blinders) which act as; wind protection and secondary protection from sun rays coming from sides! Vuarnet makes small pads which can be installed by velcro! Always spray lenses and goggles before skiing with anti-fog spray. It works! |
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First week of class over and Darko, Dino and Forny have handed in their homework so they are in line for the ski vices.
Make sure you are old skis, sandpaper ( 80, 120, 180), iron and wood block ready for next weeks class ready. Would "other" classmates please confirm if still alive and well! Question to the "stars" of the class, what does DIN mean or its origins? Yes it will count for the ski vices! |
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Seems that carving is the problem for many skiers on this site. Here is an excellent article which describes well this technique.
Have fun reading it. Introduction to Carving by Leonid Feldman Now you are at the point where you learn how to carve. Everybody all over the world is talking about carving because on today's super-sidecuts skis, especially the most radical ones, you can make amazingly short radius virtually skid-free turns that make you feel like a flying angel. It is fun, it is easy, and you will be missing out if you don't try it. You will need two things to succeed on the slopes: right skis and right technique. First about skis. The shorter is the sidecut radius the tighter arc you can carve. Skis with sidecut radius that make turns from 7 to 14 meters provide the greatest carving versatility. Now that you have the right skis, lets begin. First stand with feet hip width apart or wider without your skis on. Try to push your right hand sideways. You can easily start feeling how your hips (center of mass) moving in the same direction. Now try your left side. You should be receiving the same feelings. Try all these movements in front the mirror. You should discover that one of your legs is extended while another one becomes flexed. Next try to do the same with your skis on. You will find out that your skis will be rolling from one inside edge to the other. Go down the hill on a gentle terrain doing exactly the same. What is happening? When you push to the right, your skis go to the right, and when you push to the left your skis go to the left The process of pushing helps you to move your center of mass inside the center of the turn keeping your wide stance stable. I believe that you remember that all your movements have to begin from your ankles and they have to be flexed. That promotes enhanced shin angle. Place more weight on your downhill ski on the inside edge. In that position, on the inside edge of your downhill ski, you are applying more pressure on the side of your big toe. Now, to make a turn, try to move pressure on your downhill ski from your big toe to your little toe at the same time pushing your hand. To do this simply roll your ankles downhill. For example you are going to the right, more weight is going to be on your left leg on the inside edge (side of your big toe) and pushing your right hand. Now roll your ankles from right to the left and changing your pushing hand from right to left. Keep in mind that the pressure has to shift from your big toe to the little toe on the downhill ski and on your uphill ski it has to shift from your little toe to your big toe. These movements have to be done simultaneously. Try to imagine that you are skiing in a room with a really low ceiling so you have to limit your up and down motions. Think about your lower body rolling underneath your stable upper body. As you are rolling your legs underneath your body, you will be creating long leg / short leg movements. Think back to when you were watching your self in the mirror. As you pushed to the side the inside leg began to shrink enabling you to take your center mass further inside the turn. If you are making short radius turns, your upper body is always looking downhill because shorter turns require quicker edge changes and more angulation on your lower legs. Your shoulders, chest and hips face straight downhill, while your skis turn beneath them. That movements we call "cross under". You will feel "countering" of your hips as your finish each turn, but it is not something you force. It just happens if you keep your hips still and pointing at the fall line. If you are making GS turns, your upper body is following the tips of your skis. As your skis turn, let your hips turn at the same speed, following their lead. Keep your pelvis comfortably perpendicular to the direction of your travel. Feel yourself flow with your skis. The more comfortable you feel on the flat terrain the more you will be able to increase your speed on the slopes. Good luck!! MORE COPYRIGHT © 2005 YOUCANSKI.COM 1 |
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Dino,
Think what you do when skiing! You "move" your center of gravity ( body) fore and aft while skiing. If you constantly keep pressure on tips at all times, you are FORCING turns, FORCING skis! Poor aggressive technique. Doomed to everlasting "intermediate" level". Not normal. Not acceptable. Try this solution for your friend. On easy run ski with all buckles ( I really mean all) undone! After 30 minutes of this skiing, your friend will be forced to stay neutral in boots and neutral on skis. No more shin problems, better skiing, longer life, and finally will progress to expert level faster! Try it!!! |
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You are so right. Following a more experienced skier helps.
There is no "evident" line or correct path in moguls so by following some person is much better. Happy teaching Ben. Pavel |
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There is not one technique for skiing moguls. I will try to offer several options, but first what I tried to convey in the first string is NOT to attempt moguls if you have not mastered the basics! You will just "pick up" poor skiing habits which will haunt you for years!
Assuming you can; set edges, control pressure to skis,adjust weight distribution here are some skiing options in moguls; 1. If new snow or loose snow on moguls DO NOT ski into the valleys but set edges at top of moguls and land at flank of next mogul. Allow ski to ride up to loose snow! 2. Take fall line direct (straight down) and set edges ( very lightly) at flanks of each mogul as monsieur Jean-Luc Brassard would do, flexing legs at each edge set. 3. Ski the trail edges where moguls are smaller and less ice. Allow ski to carve into the flank of the mogul and set edges very hard at end of turn turn which will be near top of lower mogul. 4. If very hard and icy conditions, turn and pivot at TOP of each mogul and allow skis to turn down upper mogul ( with very soft edges), then at lower mogul set edges harder as you come up lower mogul. Ending with hard edge set just before you pivot at top. Repeat process! 5. My very favorite technique is in Spring when moguls get bigger but softer. Most skiers still use the "herd" technique which is follow tracks of other skiers into valleys. As result valleys get narrower,moguls get steeper flanks. The secret is that the tops are very soft with wet snow. Great landing zone. Small yes, but just enough space to land, set edge and rotate ski in one flowing motion. Now you can appreciate all that "practice" on easy slopes. Where it is steeper this technique is easier, but the mental factor ( yes again that voice in your head gets louder). This is when you have to "prove" to yourself that you want it! Do not even look at valleys! Focus on the soft tops and flow from top to top of moguls. As you land you will slow down due to soft loose snow, dot not set very hard edge, just direct ski to next top! You will notice that ski "burst" through the soft snow creating a "volcano" effect as you pass from one top to next top! Hope this helps! |
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Alt20,
If it is just the leg moving in the cuff area ( the upper 30% of boot) then the solution is relatively easy. The booster strap is excellent. I kept loosing this strap so I found another solution. If you look carefully at all the ski boots, the "power strap" , that velcro/nylon strap that goes around top section of boot is riveted to the top plastic portion of the rear "spoiler". Like you I found my leg moving fore and aft inside thew boot. I obtained another power strap and sewed it to the top section of the boot liner. Now my boots are "snug" around my leg! The slightest movement is transfered to the ski. If you want to see if this is exactly what you want, just roll some duct tape once around the same level as the new strap. Ski one day with this tape. You will experience an amazing control of your skis. Hopethis helps you! |
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