Messages posted by : pavelski
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Forgot to tell you.
You are never "old" to ski, just better! My wife gave me a T-shirt for Spring skiing ( very wild, very 60's shirt). It says, "Aged to perfection" |
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You did not mention the model name of the Markers.
I assume it is an old model so I will provide you with the procedures based on this assumption. The rear unit has a plate with rail that is screwed to ski. There are 4 screws holding this plate. You muts "back off" rear binding by using the rear lower screw. The upper screw is for the DIN adjustment. Do not touch it! Once rear unit is off, it is simple matter to take rear plate off. Note position of screws and place back in slots fro screws. Plug holes if you will use ski! Careful with that Phillips screwdriver, it may "strip" your screw heads since you must use, POSIDRIVE screwdriver! |
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In order to keep all "small" articles together, I suggest that you buy a tool box with many sections. Below is a typical ski tuning tool box.
box.http://www.j2ski.com/images/pavelski/toolbox.jpg Look at the tool box picture very carefully. You will note in the top section two articles. These are for level 3 ski tuners. You do not need these now, but in coming years as you become a serious tuner for your ski club, regional ski racers or as tuner for your national team skiers you will need these. The black unit is a special reamer with guide to make grooves or threads for the ski binding screws. The yellow unit is a special spray to lubricate bindings! Your homework ( for the class members that want the ski vices) is to look at all the items in the box and name at least 10 of them! The deadline will be Friday January 19th. If you want to really impress me, tell me what each item is used for !!! Enjoy!!! |
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The picture below is a ski true bar.
http://www.j2ski.com/images/pavelski/tool1.jpg The function of a true bar is to determine how the ski base and ski edges align. That is the plastic base must be perfectly flat ( aligned) with metal ski edges. The lower edge of this bar is placed 90 degrees to ski edges and moved from tip to tail to determine any variation. Here is how you do this! 1. Take ski and turn so that ski base is facing up and top of ski ( where binding is) is resting on your shoulder. 2. Hold ski with left hand. ( if you are right handed) 3.Raise ski tip towards a light source 4. With right hand, place true bar on ski base at tip area 5.Slowly pass true bar down ski base, while looking at interface area between true bar and ski base. Make sure ski tip is towards light source. 6. You should see a very thin line formed from the light source between the true bar and ski base. 7. Look very carefully as you do this. -if more light coming from near ski edges or line gets widder near ski edges ********** You have a a CONVEX base problem (see your school geometry text on what convex means) - if you have more light or widder light line in center of ski base,,,, You have a CONCAVE base problem! On 97% of skis you must have a "flat" perfect base before you do any tuning. When you buy a new ski base must be flat. When you buy an old ski,, you MUST check base this way. When you get TRUE BAR visit ski shops a test how many skis have aligned or perfectly flat bases!!!!! Look at picture again. You will note that at top right hand side of tool is a 90 degree section ( just above hole). This is my guide to determine if edges are truly 90 degrees. Whenever you buy a new or old ski ALWAYS check ski edges with this part of the true bar. You must have a true bar. Get one before any other tools! Please provide feedback if picts are clear and can be downloaded. |
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The following pict presents key tools for the serious tuner.
I do not recommend that you buy all these tools right away, however if you do become a "serious" tuner you must buy these. May I suggest you buy files first. You will note that I have in pict Snoli World Cup files. You do not need right now to buy these. A 6 or 8 inche mill bastard file will do! The red tool ( IN CENTER) comes from SKS and is the "ultimate" tool. It has two blades that adjust for bevel edge work. It has two magnet sections to catch all metals shavings and two stones to "finish" work. I have used this tool for 10 years with same cutting blades! This tool in "inexperienced hands" is very dangerous since it "cuts" ski edges like butter! It needs a "slow , soft" hand! This tool is used to; -take out any extra top ski layers -cut base edge ( .5 - 4 degree bevel) -cut vertical edge ( .5 - 4 degree bevel) The orange tool also from SKS has a serious coarse grain file with degree indicator. Used to take dings, burrs and rust off. The tool on top right side ( yellow tape) is a diamond file in its sleeve! I protect all my files and diamond stones in individual sheaths! The diamond stone is a must since it takes out dings also and does final very sharp edge. The screwdrive is a #3 Posidrive ( not Philips) . All ski screws appear to be Phillips type but are really industry specific POSIDRIVE! At top left hand side are two World Cup files. I use these to "fine tune " ski edges in parts that need extra work! When you are beginner ALWAYS use a guide to make sure you have correct angle. I will have a full class just on the use of files in coming class. Note old carpet on work area! Note cleaned files. They are at least 3 years old! Note diamond sheath is marked "coarse" so that you do not have to search for correct file or stone! Please give me feedback on pictures. Can you download them. Can you "save them" |
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Thank you for all your comments and feedback.
In order to make course more "interesting" and effective, I am posting some picts to visually give you a concrete example of some aspects we discussed in the past class. Rather than place all picts on same message, I will present some of the key tools alone and discuss their use. http://www.j2ski.com/images/pavelski/workbench.jpg The picture above presents a typical tuning area. Note the following; -ample lighting -old carpet sections on surface ( passed edge by 2" so wax will drip on carpet) -tools on wall unit -long long electrical wire for iron ( on floor) - old carpet on floor ( cannot see on pict) -tool kit in plastic box in front of skis -blue roll of paper on left -fire extinguisher on left wall -electrical plugs ( in front and sides) Negative aspects ( Like most I tend to be messy) -tools all over bench ( try to keep tools in specific place) -firewood under work area. ( fire hazard if using candles) -iron (that is cold) should be on ceramic or metal tray NOT on plastic surface. Hint: See those holes ( near vices). If you look very carefully you will note they have different sizes. They are functional and very useful! The first person who can tell me what they are used for will get free set of BOOSTER STRAPS! |
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Several persons have asked to explain some tools and their use in more detail.
I will. With pictures and more precise presentations. Once I get into actual tuning procedures, I will go step by step. My goal in the past class is to allow everyone to get tools and practice with old ski. By next week we will take all tools and discuss their use. For the class ( the ones registered and still active) they will get a DVD from me with the Rossignol race technician showing how pros do it! So do not panic if all this seems strange. Keep sending me massages on topics I did not present well! I hope you all have by next Monday a true bar! We will do a very important exercise with this bar, so please get true bar! With this bar you will understand the concepts of beveled ski bases and the number of degrees you will chose to do your skis! I will also provide you all with illustrations and pictures on these concepts and procedures. In conclusion, remember that tuning skills are learned over time. You will not master all the techniques in one skiing season. You will learn here the basic "correct" procedures, then you will be at ease to try alone all the prep. Please do not go out and buy all sorts of "specialized" tools. At this time you do not need them. Think long term. That is buy tools, as you need them and do not let "others" convince you that you need this or that tool. Think "outside" the box,,,,,,, so buy tools that do the same function but are 60% cheaper since they are not ski specific! Two examples Wax iron. I have used 30+ irons in my tuning. I have at least 3 specialized ski irons, one is a Toko iron that allows wax sheets to be held on iron while you "iron on" the wax. My old 5 euro old iron is better! Wax metal scraper. You can get special ski metal and nylon ski scrapers but you can also use very effectively; plaster spreaders by Stanley, cut sheet metal from machinists, plastic mastic spreaders, etc..... I want you to get your tools and become "familiar" with their use. You must learn to feel the tool doing its work. Ad an example when using a file, you must learn to listen to sound it makes and the feel it generates as you pass it over the edges. The first impressions you will have ( if you INCORRECTLY prepared ski edges) is a file that seems to go well, then a hard spot stops file) That is a burr or ding caused by rocks or rail ! The feel and sound will tell you that you did not do your prep! When I teach this here, I am just behind you and can tell you to notice sound or feel. Since I can not be there with you, you must be sensitive to all the sensory messages from the file ski edges, iron and wax. I asked all the class to tell me what happens when you apply wax on old ski base! Look carefully as wax solidifies. It is fascinating. It is like taking the pulse of your ski! I can tell you from looking at wax solidifying on your ski; -condition of your ski base -condition of inner ski edges ( broken or not) -quality of base structure -level of adhesion of wax due to impurities -quality of wax -quantity of wax -acceptable pre-heating of base So you see there are many things you will learn. |
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Stella,
As a "language professional" you want to get most precise and clear message. Unfortunately what makes your work difficult is that the "english" often is not precise , therefore you do not understand sense of message. The above comments are excellent. Allow me to continue. Prone to collapse means that there is a risk ( since there is a weal spot) that a section of snow will break off and create avalanche. Big that it will posse risk must be understood in avalanche context. Snow falls and piles up to such a point that its own weight will cause a section to break off, and slide down! Hope this helps you. Pavel |
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