Messages posted by : pavelski
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Yes there was a batch of Centro units that had problems. It was never released to general public, however mine were changed without question.
Any reputable shop should return unit. |
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There are two options for boot adjustment.
Cuff option which is done by loosening two screws of ski boots near ankle. I will provide this option to you. The second which deals with "canting",,, that is modifying the ski boot sole interface with binding, is more radical and for racing. I will not post this on public site due to legal problems, however , based on your replies to queries you seem to know your stuff, so I will send you private message with the boot canting sole option! Before you do any changes, get sole orthotics!!! Steps for ski boot collar adjustment. 1. Measure the lateral space at the toe section of the boot in order to find the mid-point! This is the portion of the boot which will touch the front binding. The sole extension past toe area. Draw line on this part of the boot with felt marker. 2. Put on shorts. 3. Mark knees at mid point with felt marker. 4. Put on boots in a level flat hard surface. Not on carpet! Do not put on buckles! 5. Place skis on hard surface and place boots on bindings.Place buckles on first (easiest) position. 6. Let friend take a plumb line ( string and weight) such as used by masons and place string at mid point mark on your knee.If you do not have correct plumb line, just get string and large , heavy nail. Tie string to nail,,voila!! 7. Allow weight at end of string to hang just above that mark you made on ski boots while you flex boots forward. 8. Flex boots forward slowly. Watch the weight at end of line. If you have real good plumb line , the weight has a pointer! This pointer should be on the medial side ( inner side) of the maker you made on the boot. The very best position for me ( I stress for me) is 8 mm medial of the center line on boot! The pointer should NEVER be on the lateral side of the marked line. On the "outside" of the line.If this is the case you "risk" skiing on the outside edge of your ski. You will have a ski that will want to turn "the othe way"! In 80% of cases, no adjustment should be made. Just then tighthen screws! PS. Remember 10 small incremental adjustments are better than one major change! Flex several times the boots, then let friend "move"cuff inward or outward while viewing the pointer.The boot adjustmen screws have a serrated interplay system within the boot so you must loosen screws a lot to play with cuff! Once pointer is correctly positioned, tighthen screws. May I suggest a drop of nail polish on screws ( it is great nut-lock)! Once right boot is done,,,do left boot! One condition BEFORE all this is done. get Orthotics placed in boots! You can not do proper cuff adjustments without orthotics!!! Notice I did not speak of "canting" but of cuff adjustments. Canting to the race technicians means modifying the interplay between the boot sole and binding and ski! This may be done by destructive methods ( no turning back here) or addictive methods. It is a very controversial issue since many racers have many ways to do this. I can forward you all data privately since some ski binding companies will not honor warrenty if "modifications" are done. Plus I do not want some parent to "sue" me for having told 15 year old son how to cant boots and then he goes off cliff in St. Moritz!!! A suggestion. Skiers should keep a log of all "modifications" they make on skis and boots, so that once a "correct" setting is found, you can use this as reference for future boots and skis! |
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I have tried to reply to your request via email, however seems we have cyber space problems.
Please advise if you have Mac platform since I can send Imovie raw video! If not, I am presently preparing a college level course for ski technicians, once all documentation is prepared will send if you provide home address! Or better still, plan trip to North America and I will provide free workshop! Start by buying all equipment! |
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Nigel's advice is right on the money!
Demo several skis before buying! Skis do have specific personalities ( like men) and you have to be comfortable with the skis you buy. As far as length may I recommend 165 cm. Take lessons righ away after you buy skis so that you learn how to use them more effectively! Ps Small reminder! This is the worst time to buy skis can you wait till March..... |
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The first and most important reason to tune skis is not to save money! Yes you will save but that is far from the real reason to tune.
Skis are mass produced, thus are made for the "average" skier. As you get better you want your skis to perorm better! You want to get better "feel" from the ski. You want the ski to react to your smallest edge pressure,,that means tuning your ski! In essence you are personalizing your skis according to your specific needs. To get best "feeling" from skis you must first learn to let ski do all work, then you have to know what you want in a ski! Only then will you be able to tune a ski! A small illustration. All skiers want sharp edges, but few skiers know where to dull edges and how much to dull! You must discover how much edge to dull based on your skiing , terrain and side cut of ski. If you dull too much, you will have a "wandering" ski, If you dull not enough you will have a 'nervous" ski that will turn when you wiggle your ears! You must experiment and find your "specifications"! Oh, by the way the outside edge and inside edge are not dulled the same. In conclusion, ski tuning is more complex than it seems.There are some basic concepts which have to be understood, then the practical aspects have to be mastered. Once you do ski on a "tuned ski" as the previous person stated, you will never go back to an "ordinary" ski! It is worth the effort to learn! |
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Dear Flextone,
For the sake of clear communication try to read your message before you send it so "little" spelling mistakes can be corrected by you! It helps the reader understand what you want and help you. If you "crashed" while skiing on average skis perhaps you should reconsider buying SL 9 since they are great skis but they require precise technique! All SL skis require you to be aware of your skiing position! If you feel that you have the technical ability, then by all means buy the skis since they are a de-tuned racing ski with softer flex and torsion index! As far as size, SL skis should be between your nose and forehead! Atomic SL models for 2006 are the SL12s so your model are two years old! Still good! Take lessons if you buy these skis since you will "improve" so much more! PS They are evaluated as skis in the top 90% of performance range! |
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The key is the s at the end of exercises!
No one activity can cover all that is required in skiing. As note above running or in line skating are excellent Before I give my favorites, we should all accept that it is above a question of life style! Exercising for two hours once a week then eating fast foods does not help! My typical program is; 1 hour of swimming non-stop laps n( every day) 2 hours ( 3 times per weeks of light weights many reps ) of weights Free and pulley Every second weekend walking up ski center. PS I never take elevator I walk instead of taking car to corner store Starting in August I do stomach crunches with ski boots ( sets of 100) I do every day 30 minutes on pivot board! Everyone has to find workout they like and that makes them happy! |
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Thank you for the comments. You are right about terminology and also "local" understanding of this terminology! Where I ski twin tips automatically means " fun park" skiing!
As far as speed and edge set,,speed is relative to each skier. I know what you are talking about, however even if I do as you say ( which I do) some skis are better than others. Allow me to illustrate. I have a pair of Salomon 2V GS lab ski at 185 cm. This ski will take any speed and any slope with ease! No chatter no"wanderin" Precision at its best under race speed ! I have another ski the Atomic SL 12 at 165 cm. Great ski but at a certain speed its tolerance margin is narrow, If you do not stay on top of ski at all times it will "throw you" ! It is not designed for real speed! It is designed for quick, hard turns with 11 meter radius! Here is my point! What is speed for some is a "warm up" for others! That is why every skier must try skis on the slope to see if they answer their needs! Again thanks for the comments! |
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