Messages posted by : pavelski
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Mike,,,
Did you work for the CIA in the 60's as a photo-interpreter? Amazing!!! Item 18 near Taos sticker is a Japanese saw! If you have 'discovered" this saw get one. Unlike western saws all Japenese designed saws cut on the pull motion! This one is ver flexible and has two sets of grades. On right is very fine cut and on right is the coarse cut! That red dot also has an integrated junction which allows me to place handle at any angle ! I will allow this item as "ski related" since I use it to cut ski boots in half! I also have discivered with new skis that have so much plastic, I can cut ski in half using this saw until I get to edges! Then I use a carbine disk with air pressure! Look Look fellows it is staring at me!!! Asking me why no one has seen it!!!! Have you read Sherlock's Holmes novel, where a German duchess hides a "secret document"! Scotland Yard searches from top to bottom in a small flat, yet can not find it! In 5 minutes Holmes finds it, to the astonishment of Scotland Yard! Think like Pavel..... opssssss! 70+ items are there for you!!!! |
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Mike: Yes you can use ceramic stone to detune, however if it is fine grit level I suggest you use diamond stick or gummy block.
Jan: You are correct. I assumed that most skiers have not done tuning so they have lots of edge! You are correct, as you do more "filing" or tuning this steel edge gets less pronounced and thus you must "take" some plastic from sidewalls! There are tools which you can buy which remove plastic sidewalls! I have found that using a Stanley knife with an "inserted" blade does trick very well! I also found the blade carpet installers use ( a curved inner section) gives me the best angle to take out plastic. Again the issue of "nothing is free" comes up! If you tune too much or too hard you will need a new ski in one or two seasons. Once you have dome a great tune, then "minor" touch ups in specific zones will do! That is another advantage to doing your skis rather than giving them to a shop every week! Ellistine's question about protecting the base from the rollers is for me an none issue since the rollers I have do not cause grooves or scratches on base! However one pont which is very important which I forgot to mention is that the base MUST be clean and smooth before you use guides! Any old wax or matter on base will cause rollers to deviate,,,thus change angle! Ellistine, you should apply just enough force to "file" edges but not so much that you stall or stop file! The key question which I was waiting from was from one of the "brighter" students! It has to do with right and left ski tuning! Think about it! Mike we covered this issue 2 years ago! |
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Rossfra8,
Another who impresses me! You are so correct about the origins! Did you know that the very first "skis" made by Fischer were for his children from "leftover barrel sections ( I think in English called "staves") No bindings just leather straps passed through an horizontal slot near heel area and another in the toe area! Just to go to school! Other children then wanted some since most skis were very long and not adapted to children! The birth not only of a ski company but also of the "mini" ski which took until 2004 to catch on! A man truly ahead of his time! A simple need, a simple solution! |
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Jan,
Of course I will provide feedback on "errors" if any. All I can say how impressed I am by all your responses. You all are amazing! I did not expect Mike, with all his computer problems to get some many answers. Did you buy a huge 3o" HD screen to go with your super super fast computer! I expected answers in about a week! You really are great observers! Now comes the collaboration since the "hard" items are to be found! Have you all read "Alice in Wonderland" ? Great novel! oppssss!!!! |
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I have no idea what computer you have Jan, but the resolution level must be amazing!
Yes those bindings are set at 9!!!! Yes there were considered, "exploding" bindings in their time! Now about those Salomon's why were they "special" and now really impress me and tell me what bindings were on them by looking at the holes! I promised not hints but......think gestalt!!!!! |
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Mike,
Your "engineering" eye impresses me. I expected Jan to be the only one to get those Elan skis in the right bottom corner. Then to get ski carrier really, really impressed me since it is an object out of context and form another view plane! To get plumb line again was far far above average perceptual range!!!! You are good! 70 items are there!!!!! Now the serious items have to be found!!!! |
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Did you notice the three stars?
Did you notice that we never had stars in class titles. It is because this class is a key class! This is the class in which you must learn to do work correctly and very very well! Objective of class: 1. To understand the various possible angles to be used. 2. To learn how to create an angled vertical ski edge! You will often hear me say, "nothing is for free" and in this class you will see why! You have to view your choice of edge angles as a "personal choice" and a balancing act! Let me explain. You do not set your skis at x or y angle because "they" do it! You must understand that with every increase of angle there is a risk of edge damage!Thus 1 degree provides small risk, 2 degrees greater risk and finally 3 degrees vertical has very great risk that if you hit rock, concrete, steel pipe etc... you will have a damaged ski edge. That is the balancing act you will have! Greater angle....greater risk! Also you must consider where you ski or where you will ski! If you have constant snow and have soft base, there is not need to 'over-angle" or over sharpen edges to 3 degrees! A sharp 1 degree will do! My powder fats are never sharpened more that 1 degree! That is why the expression, "nothing is free" applies since if you want very very sharp edges at 3 degrees you must pay in damage and life of the ski edge! Make an intelligent decision. My advice to you is start at 1 degree. Make that edge very sharp and ski for a while at 1 degree. If you notice that there is more ice on slopes or your skis do not "carve" then first verify your technique,,,,then go to 2 degrees! Do everything in slow gradual steps! Very soon you will be able to "read" a course or slope and know what degree your ski must have! Often I plan a ski holiday, prepare my skis 2 days before trip since they announce powder and once I get there I realize the runs are rock hard! No problem ( since I travel with tune up kit) , I re-file edge to 3 degrees! Here are the basic steps for this work. I will assume you have protected your edges There is no rust At this point of the tune up, you must learn to use all your senses! Learn to see edge ( if you can get a jewelers magnifying glass) Learn to feel edge. Gently pass index finger over edge. Feel dings! Close your eyes when you do this! Learn to smell as file or tool goes over edges. There is a distinctive smell which is present! Secure ski to vice so that base is facing away from you! Using strong wide elastic bring ski brakes up. I start all my work from left to right , from tip to tail so place ski so tip is to left! Using diamond stone or gummy block take out all dings ( inward cuts) and burrs ( outward damaged areas. Set your tool at the degree you want for your conditions. 90 or 0 degrees for powder soft soft snow! 89 or 1 degree for some soft snow but some hard base. 88 or 2 degrees for groomed slopes with patches of hard sections. 87 or 3 degrees for hard icy conditions in most of ski areas. A WARNING***** A VERY IMPORTANT WARNING ****** Once you start to use file with guide,or any cutting tool, DO NOT PASS FINGER OVER EDGE!!! Read that message again! Always use towel paper to clean or touch edge! I warn you ! You will forget and get metal bits into your finger! You see, what the file or cutting tool is doing is taking off some steel. Unless you are using the SKS Racing Cutting tool, you will have microscopic sections taken out depending on your hand pressure! Always wipe edge with paper and throw paper away! Do not try to get perfect angle with one pass. Light even pressure is much better hard uneven motion! Three passes are better than one! The secret is to place pressure inward towards ski core,, not downward! Use large shoulder muscles gently while fingers just guide file! Do not attempt to do one pass form tip to tail. Do 30 to 50 cm passes, and always overlapping sections. Listen very carefully! The sound more than anything will tell you when the edge is perfect and even. It is an even sound which the file makes from the tip to the tail. Once you heard it you will know. Think of your file as a violin and get that even distinctive sound! Do not worry about tips and tails now! Just get that sound! When you think you have it,,clean edges again with paper and feel edges,,but this time not along edge axis but 90 degrees from edge axis! Gently stroke edge with three fingers in various sections! If in doubt do another pass! The next step is critical since your edge does not yet have a uniform razor sharp edge. You must pass a ceramic stone IN ONE EVEN SOFT PASS! This is a stone very much like a knife sharpening stone! Reliable Racing sells a kit of stones! I have used these stones for well over 20 years and it is still effective. This kit has 4-6 stones with finner finish! The last is 600 grit! You do not need such kit yet! Just get a fine grit ceramic stone. A fine or very fine diamond stick will do also! Repeat same process on other ski! Last step is to de-tune tip and tails! Again it is your call. You must learn how much to take out! A rule of thumb will help you! Look at ski as it lays on a hard floor or work bench. There is a curve at which edge does not touch surface. Note where this point is! It is a critical point! See if you can visualize this! As you set an edge and "pressure" the skis forward on a hard surface,,,the ski will bend or arc ( like a bow). That point you focussed on is now more forward ( towards the tip) That is the zone you must de-tune in consideration to your ski performance expectations. No de-tune will render the ski very very nervous so that if you wiggle your ears it will turn! 10 cm, de-tune will get you a "lazy, sloth turning ski" You play with this zone until you like it! One or two passes at 90 degrees from edge will effectively de-tune edge. DO NOT USE HARD FILE or coarse sticks. I am waiting for the one obvious question! See who will be the one to ask it! Pavel |
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After reflection about this "how to send answers" I have found the solution.
We want to foster cooperation since skiers are people who help each other, yet we are also competitive! I will keep track of individual correct inputs , thus first person who gets object identification will be "credited", however at least 70 objects must be found by group since I have already located +70 clear ski related objects. This will motivate you all to share clues as the difficulty level increases!I am sure for one object you will all need the help of Jan! Every week I will post "score list" of participants. If group does not get +70 objects at end of 3 weeks,,,,we will have to have new contest! In this manner individual initiative is rewarded but group collaboration is also required! Also can we use the time/cm approach to locating object on picture since I know some of you will use the "shot-gun" approach to get scores. Thus saying, "Hexcel skis' is not acceptable. You must say, "Hexcel twin tail skis at 3 oclock 20 cm. up from greem bar" This is an example! To help you set your sights,I will go out and measure in cm. points A to B so that you will all have same perceived distance! Remember also that in case of a tie, its is the person who has given the most precise information who will win. Thus an answer such as; Burt 1974 adult binding is far superior to Plate binding! How this clears the air! Hope this meets all your approval! PS I also promise not the give hints to Mike and Keith via PM! |
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