Messages posted by : pavelski
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Before we continue our class, I need to have some feedback from the class students on their progress.
1. Do you have vices set up? 2. Do you have basic tools ready? 3. Do you have true bar and sanding block? 4. Is iron plugged and ready? Several students have commented on time taken for tune up and they were wondering if their time was average. There are actually two levels in ski tune up. The first , which is more time demanding is actually just getting a ski to "correct specifications"! That is getting the base perfectly level or aligned to ski edges, cleaning base and edges and finally taking out all imperfections due to rocks, branches, steel chair bars, etc... If you have taken care of your skis, this first part should not be more than 30 minutes. If on the other hand you have rust on edges, never cleaned base, never sanded base, you may have to take more time. Typically I do all first phase tune up in August, when I have lots of time since I have several skis to do! I examine all skis and note all work to be done. The more extreme ski work ( convex or concave bases, serious dings etc..) I will do in ski tuning machines! Just the base setting!!!!!! As far as phase 2 tune up work, it takes me 5 minutes per ski! This involves; 1. Visual inspections of skis ( top skin, edges, ski base) 2. With ceramic bar or diamond stick, take out all dings and burrs dings= steel edges that are broken inward causing dip into edges. burr= steel edges with rough edges due to dragging edges over rocks. Typically dings are caused when you set a hard edge on rocks. Please note this,,,,,,, since it is very important that you understand that the more pronounced your vertical tune, ie 3 degrees, the more "fragile" is that leading edge. A 3 degree vertical set edges gives you great very sharp cut but it means that you will have more dings and burrs. Just draw a graph with ( abscissa, vertical line and ordinate, horizontal line )at 90 degree angle. Now draw over this figure a vertical line that is 87 degrees inward. Note how the point where two lines meet is more pronounced. That is what happens to your ski edges! For you that avoided geometry all your educational life, ask friend to show you what an abscissa and ordinate look like! The more radical you make ski edges, the more "fragile" the ski edges will be. There is not one set rule on what is the correct vertical angle. Let me provide some benchmarks. If you are skiing in soft well packed runs a 1 or 2 degree is more than acceptable. My powder skis are at 1 degree since I rarely set an edges in powder. On hard icy ski conditions you must go from 2-3 degrees vertical. If you take my "advanced" tuning course in 2007 you will learn to do "multiple edge sets"! And you thought ski tuning was simple!!!!!!!! For 90% of skiers a 2 degree vertical edges is perfect. If you ever put a 3 degree edge for a skier that never had skis tuned, he/she will have problems since ski is too sharp!!!!! They will fall on first turn!!!!! My trick ( which I practiced on my wife) is to slowly tune skis more radical very slowly over several months. Now my wife insists in having her skis tuned "like the last time" ie racing 3 degrees! Please do not tell her that!!!! 3. I mark areas on edges that need work and with file I give 2-3 passes in that area only. Then I will do one final file pass to get uniform set steel edges. 4, Using 200 ceramic stick , I will pass steel edges once. 5. Using 400 ceramic stick, I will pass steel edges. 6. Using 200+ alu-sand paper I will GENTALLY pass from tip to tail! Voila!!!! All set for next days skiing. 5 minutes! Remember rule of thumb! warmer the weather for next skiing day the more structured the base. So it is possible that you might have to pass base with 150 grit paper once or twice. You will learn this from experience. To clean base you may use a nylon brush. I have a roto ( a brush on shaft driven by drill) just because I have 10 pairs to do often! Again rough brush for warm weather ( -3 to +10) and finner as it get colder! When I get to setting wax and preparing wax for skiing I will also show you how to structure the wax. Remember the original reason for our tune is to get protection and great glide ALL DAY! This is where we part ways with the racing tuners. They have a saying, " thick sticks and thin wins" They are interested in ONE run thus they will scrap off most if not all surface wax. It is the wax IN the base that does all lubrication IN A RACE! You must NOT take out all surface wax. I will show you how this is done in later classes! You must first learn how to apply wax correctly and then structure this wax once it has cooled! Are we ready to continue???? Dino, Darko, Graviteski, Forny, and missing "others" I will wait for your feedback via PM! |
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I had a "eurika" moment on the ski slopes last week about why some skiers are stuck on the same ski level year after year.
By chance I taught two very different personality types just a few days apart and even if I was teaching the same techniques on same conditions, one skier progressed after just 3 hours while the other still remained at same ability level. I kept wondering how I had "failed" the second skier. What I could have done to to help. Then in a flash, the solution came. Here it is!!! But first let me provide the personality profiles of A and B skier. A is a Romanian student who has an open mind about learning. He had no idea at all about ski technique and had very poor ski equipment. He instantly accepted his role as student and mine as teacher. This is what he "understood" was the learning context. A teacher (which you did not question) and a student (which applied the techniques)! B is a administrator in a large utility company. Older and set in his ways as far as; political opinions, social causes, how to solve problems. The man was a doer, an administrator to "gets things done", (and wants results)! He was a success because he made people do what he wanted! He knew what he wanted! A skier was far weaker skier , with no technical skills. His equipment was "last generation circa" while the B skier had latest products. B skied every week and traveled to the biggest ski centers at least once every month! The same teaching approach was used for both skiers. The same ski resort was used and both had same teaching time. Yet skier A progressed in amazing speed, while B skier still had same problems. Here is the key, the source of the learning blockage! Skier A accepted that he had lots to learn, accepted that I would help him and let me "get into his brain" totally! After first hour he instantly applied all the techniques I had demonstrated. Skier B questioned from the onset of the classes, "this new way to teach". He skied the moguls and wanted to be better in the moguls, thus wondering why we were not in the moguls! HE HAD A SET LESSON PLAN FOR ME! He knew how he would teach this if he was the ski instructor. I was not teaching him the way he expected to be taught! He questioned all the "exercises, drills" often suggesting he needed new skis, new boots. As a final demonstration to him that it was not the skiing equipment that was the cause of his skiing shortcomings, I took his skis and he took mine. I did all the drills perfectly with his "old" skis ( while great difficulty since they were poorly tuned and not waxed at all) while he could not follow me with my skis. To him it was clear, it was not the equipment that was the cause ! IT WAS HIS LACK OF MUSCULAR STRENGTH according to him. He was going to do more endurance work in his studio! See the pattern! Skier B never accepted me as his teacher. Yes he wanted to learn to ski better ( and pay 80$ an hour to do so) but he was not willing PSYCHOLOGICALLY to accept my role as teacher, thus do all drills without question. Often I would hear, "how is this going to make me a better mogul skier"! I even brought in a small model of a "shaped" ski and tried to explain the mechanics of an efficient turn. My message did not passed his ears. Learning skiing is like learning anything. You must be open to new ideas, new techniques and you must trust your teacher. Skier B failed on both counts. Although skier B had more money, better equipment and more skiing experience than skier A from Romania, he was a much weaker learner and would "plateau" since he felt he had good BASIC skiing technique. Learning to ski begins in that mysterious area between the two ears. Free the mind of, "my way", the "best way". A skier instructor is a guide. Let him/her lead you to higher bliss! |
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New Atomic NEOX binding. Still in box.
$150 US |
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Only for serious racer.
181 cm. 2V Salomon with WC Lab racing plate. Salomon 916 racing bindings. Still in wrapping. New! For Europa or National ski races since this ski is very very fast. Tuned for GS race but not yet waxed! $500 US. Ready to go! |
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What the previous reply mentioned is correct. You stated that you must move rear unit back, however you did not mention boot position relative to ski.
You must have "ball of foot" right in the center of the running surface of the ski. This will give you maximum control of ski. It is not just as simple as you think. Yes you must "plug" all holes with plastic plugs. |
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Wish you had stated where you are going to ski in Canada since I have great place for you if you are in the eastern part ( Quebec, Nova Scotia etc... )
For clothing you can not beat Simons. For example polar fleece underwear at $7. Ski pants and jackets at $80. Ski pants at $40. They do not sell skis or boots, for those go to Sports Expert in Montreal on St. Catherine street. Boots at $150-250!!!! Hope this helps all! In Vancouver there is a sports store that has real low low prices on Dobson street but forgot name. All skiers in city know this store! |
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LBean,
Know exactly what you are going through since I have had several knee operations and hip surgeries. You case ( and mine) is not minor boot surgery. You need more than orthotic work. May I suggest the following; 1. In depth diagnostic analysis of your legs. This involves noting your leg geometry in relation to ski boots and skis with centering device using Witherel"s approach. See The Atheletic Skier book. 2. Serious boot modifications Cuff adjustments ( two side locking mechanisms) Orthotics ( get skiing model) Canting of shell or bindings ( see technicians who knows work done by Witherel & Evrard.) If he does not know them, I would move on. 3. Ski instructions to "adapt" to new boots and new geometry. Be patient but the rewards will be great since you will be able to ski much better. |
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Yes I miss her comments also. She is "enrolled in the tuning class" but has not done her homework.
Rumors are that she is in Alaska participating in the "extreme Cliff skiing" competition. OR Her boyfriend just unplugged her computer! |
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