It is fairly easy once you have edged and waxed a few times.
You dont really need a fancy/expensive bench/vice stand for edging, just lean the skis against the wall and do them there.
For waxing, you certainly dont need a £40 wax iron, just use an old iron or buy a cheap one from argos. As long as you dont put any water in it and set it on the lowest heat setting, it will do the job fine.
Its mostly down to learning the best ways yourself. I'm sure my methods will differ from everyone elses and there's again will be different, just practice and try to find cheaper alternatives to the expensive branded stuff.
Tom
Ski Tuning
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Jon's Ski Tuning http://www.skituning.co.uk
I get all my stuff from him. I'm planning on getting myself a sidewall planer at somepoint over the summer 'cause at the moment, each time I sharpen the edges I ended up clogging the files with the plastic from the sidewall.
Student answer: small sharp kitchen knife, a steady hand and a good eye!
I'm with smirnoff...maybe we're tight in yorkshire...
One of these works for me
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/quick-sharp-pocket-edge-tuner-24172883/
I remember Pavel said to try that too. I have visions of gaping holes in my sidewalls though!
Dripping wax on skis is a good way to waste wax (I have some Scottish ancestry). I do use the drip method for a pre-season deep wax, but get a little more frugal for the rest of the season. Use the block of wax like a crayon to coat the base. This light covering can be melted in with an iron or rubbed in with a plastic scourer. This is an especially good way if you are using expensive high fluoro waxes and makes a lot less mess.
Trencher
To Create or Answer a Topic
Started by Pablo Escobar in Ski Chatter 16-Feb-2009 - 25 Replies
Smirnoff_skier
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
Tom
Edited 1 time. Last update at 17-Feb-2009
Pablo Escobar
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
Cool, I might just buy some bits and pieces and give it a go Doug Coombs style.
Ellistine
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
bandit wrote:I have heard that a fella called spyderjon is selling a P-Tex gun that is pretty good. I hear good things about it from CEM. If you want one you know where to find him.
Jon's Ski Tuning http://www.skituning.co.uk
I get all my stuff from him. I'm planning on getting myself a sidewall planer at somepoint over the summer 'cause at the moment, each time I sharpen the edges I ended up clogging the files with the plastic from the sidewall.
Smirnoff_skier
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
ellistine wrote:
I get all my stuff from him. I'm planning on getting myself a sidewall planer at somepoint over the summer 'cause at the moment, each time I sharpen the edges I ended up clogging the files with the plastic from the sidewall.
Student answer: small sharp kitchen knife, a steady hand and a good eye!
Tom
Daved
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
I'm with smirnoff...maybe we're tight in yorkshire...
One of these works for me
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/quick-sharp-pocket-edge-tuner-24172883/
Edited 1 time. Last update at 17-Feb-2009
Dshenberger
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
Maybe I go overboard on perfection, but here's my feeble recommendation.
Get a good vice. If your ski isn't mounted solidly, it will be a pain to scrape and brush the base. Just spend the money, and make your life easy.
An edge angle guide is a good idea if you are concerned about edge hold. I use this one: http://www.fktools-us.com/ProductDetail.asp?PartNumbNew=3000
I use a diamond file guided by hand to remove any major burrs/dings, then use the carbide cutter to make sure my edge angle is correct, and finish with a ceramic stone. Sometimes I detune the tips and tail with a gummy stone, but it's not a huge deal. Here is the original kit I got: http://www.fktools-us.com/ProductDetail.asp?PartNumbNew=DSK3000#
Also, you will need to get at least one diamond file, I don't even use a regular file.
I've never had a problem with P-tex falling out - make sure you don't try to drip it on, bring the burning stick down to the ski surface.
Waxing really isn't hard - I use a universal most of the time since weather is so unpredictable here. My current wax won't run off the iron, so I dab the stick onto the iron, then rub on the ski. When the ski is covered I run the iron over it until the wax is evenly melted into the surface. Let it dry, scrape it off, brush it with a nylon brush, then finish it with a horsehair brush.
Here is a link for a good look at what a pro race tune would be: http://www.racewax.com/category/tuning_tips.wax_application
Get a good vice. If your ski isn't mounted solidly, it will be a pain to scrape and brush the base. Just spend the money, and make your life easy.
An edge angle guide is a good idea if you are concerned about edge hold. I use this one: http://www.fktools-us.com/ProductDetail.asp?PartNumbNew=3000
I use a diamond file guided by hand to remove any major burrs/dings, then use the carbide cutter to make sure my edge angle is correct, and finish with a ceramic stone. Sometimes I detune the tips and tail with a gummy stone, but it's not a huge deal. Here is the original kit I got: http://www.fktools-us.com/ProductDetail.asp?PartNumbNew=DSK3000#
Also, you will need to get at least one diamond file, I don't even use a regular file.
I've never had a problem with P-tex falling out - make sure you don't try to drip it on, bring the burning stick down to the ski surface.
Waxing really isn't hard - I use a universal most of the time since weather is so unpredictable here. My current wax won't run off the iron, so I dab the stick onto the iron, then rub on the ski. When the ski is covered I run the iron over it until the wax is evenly melted into the surface. Let it dry, scrape it off, brush it with a nylon brush, then finish it with a horsehair brush.
Here is a link for a good look at what a pro race tune would be: http://www.racewax.com/category/tuning_tips.wax_application
Ellistine
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
smirnoff_skier wrote:ellistine wrote:
I get all my stuff from him. I'm planning on getting myself a sidewall planer at somepoint over the summer 'cause at the moment, each time I sharpen the edges I ended up clogging the files with the plastic from the sidewall.
Student answer: small sharp kitchen knife, a steady hand and a good eye!
I remember Pavel said to try that too. I have visions of gaping holes in my sidewalls though!
Trencher
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
Dshenberger wrote:
Waxing really isn't hard - I use a universal most of the time since weather is so unpredictable here. My current wax won't run off the iron, so I dab the stick onto the iron, then rub on the ski. When the ski is covered I run the iron over it until the wax is evenly melted into the surface. Let it dry, scrape it off, brush it with a nylon brush, then finish it with a horsehair brush.
Dripping wax on skis is a good way to waste wax (I have some Scottish ancestry). I do use the drip method for a pre-season deep wax, but get a little more frugal for the rest of the season. Use the block of wax like a crayon to coat the base. This light covering can be melted in with an iron or rubbed in with a plastic scourer. This is an especially good way if you are using expensive high fluoro waxes and makes a lot less mess.
Trencher
because I'm so inclined .....
Edited 1 time. Last update at 17-Feb-2009
Topic last updated on 18-February-2009 at 23:18