Ski Tuning
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I do my own Pablo, don't have any problem with P-tex ensure the ski is clean with a citrus based cleaner and ensure the candle is well lite and then it's down to your steady hands.
You will need a set of vises, an iron, brushes, an edger they is loads of good stuff on the internet, get on to the swix site for a good video presentation, I'm sure you have an old set of skis somewhere in your Columbian garage to practice on.
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Started by Pablo Escobar in Ski Chatter 16-Feb-2009 - 25 Replies
Pablo Escobar posted Feb-2009
Any one do there own? Now I am threatening to top 6 pairs of skis I figured it will start to be cost effective...
Bandit
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
I do bits and bobs. Can't get to grips with P-Tex, it always falls out :roll:
Waxing I can do :lol:
Waxing I can do :lol:
Pablo Escobar
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
I heard the secret to P-Tex is heating the area you want the p-tex to bond with, ie-the base of the ski.
What sorta kit do you have/would you recommend for starting off?
What sorta kit do you have/would you recommend for starting off?
Ian Wickham
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
Pablo Escobar wrote:I heard the secret to P-Tex is heating the area you want the p-tex to bond with, ie-the base of the ski.
What sorta kit do you have/would you recommend for starting off?
I do my own Pablo, don't have any problem with P-tex ensure the ski is clean with a citrus based cleaner and ensure the candle is well lite and then it's down to your steady hands.
You will need a set of vises, an iron, brushes, an edger they is loads of good stuff on the internet, get on to the swix site for a good video presentation, I'm sure you have an old set of skis somewhere in your Columbian garage to practice on.
Bandit
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
I have heard that a fella called spyderjon is selling a P-Tex gun that is pretty good. I hear good things about it from CEM. If you want one you know where to find him.
Apart from that I use:
An old Iron
A small Vice
2 Ski supports
Brake straps
Plastic scraper
Metal scraper
Gurt Big B'tard file
Scrubbing brush for base texture (clean)
2 Edge tools to cover all angles
De Burring block
Diamond Files for fine repairs
Apart from that I use:
An old Iron
A small Vice
2 Ski supports
Brake straps
Plastic scraper
Metal scraper
Gurt Big B'tard file
Scrubbing brush for base texture (clean)
2 Edge tools to cover all angles
De Burring block
Diamond Files for fine repairs
Edited 1 time. Last update at 16-Feb-2009
Pablo Escobar
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
Is it pretty easy to get to grips with? I was wanting a comprehensive list for what I needed, where to get it and preferably if someone added it all to a basket for me and send me a linky :wink:
How much am I looking at for the essentials?
Edit: Posted after Bandits list..
I was looking at jonskituning but the basic package seems a bit over kill to me.. plus I haven't heard of the brand so straight away I was hesitant and a victim to the marketing of Toko :lol:
I am on snowHeads exodus anyhoo.
How much am I looking at for the essentials?
Edit: Posted after Bandits list..
I was looking at jonskituning but the basic package seems a bit over kill to me.. plus I haven't heard of the brand so straight away I was hesitant and a victim to the marketing of Toko :lol:
I am on snowHeads exodus anyhoo.
Edited 1 time. Last update at 16-Feb-2009
Daved
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
as a complete beginner at this I looked on youtube and watched how it was done ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggXATfM81l0
and others
all you need is an old iron and a workbench (i did mine on the kitchen surface but its messy ) ...thoroughly clean the ski sole (I did mine with thinners on a cloth)and let dry then i dripped ptex on the gouges then let cool for 1/4 of an hour scraped off with a stainless metal edge then sanded with VERY fine glass paper till completely smooth then hot waxed scraped the excess off with apiece of perspex...thoroughly brushed with a stiff brush then edged with a little gizmo i bought from decathlon....took them to a mate who was a ski technician who said they were OK
its not rocket science :lol: and the cost was the ptex £4.95 and a new scrubbing brush £1 and wax £6 the edger was about £5 from decatlon
try these people ...gave me good service
https://www.slalomracing.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggXATfM81l0
and others
all you need is an old iron and a workbench (i did mine on the kitchen surface but its messy ) ...thoroughly clean the ski sole (I did mine with thinners on a cloth)and let dry then i dripped ptex on the gouges then let cool for 1/4 of an hour scraped off with a stainless metal edge then sanded with VERY fine glass paper till completely smooth then hot waxed scraped the excess off with apiece of perspex...thoroughly brushed with a stiff brush then edged with a little gizmo i bought from decathlon....took them to a mate who was a ski technician who said they were OK
its not rocket science :lol: and the cost was the ptex £4.95 and a new scrubbing brush £1 and wax £6 the edger was about £5 from decatlon
try these people ...gave me good service
https://www.slalomracing.com/
Edited 1 time. Last update at 16-Feb-2009
Dave Mac
reply to 'Ski Tuning' posted Feb-2009
Couple of thoughts.
Bandit raised the point about P tex falling out. I once watched a guy do a repair, and have used the same method since. Go round the edges of the gouge and undercut. I have used a wood chisel for this. Then warm the ski, and the candle should get into the undercut. Ensure that the undercut at the raer of the gouge, (towards the back of the ski), is sound. This takes the most ground pressure.
Waxing. This happened at the same time as my Austrian carpet boot inner soles. I cut a piece of metal tube, about 20mm OD, and about 3mm wall thickness. This was cut to ski width, at the widest. Get a nut and bolt, about half an inch longer, pass through the tube, so as to be a good rolling fit. Make a metal fork that captures the tube, when the bolt is passed through the fork and the tube. The narrow end of the fork is forged into a handle. I used a file handle. So effectively, you now have a roller.
Put the roller tube onto the hotplate on your kitchen hob. Then roll the wax onto the ski, in one quick pass. No need to scrape, it's a perfect finish.
Then scrape the worst of the wax up off the kitchen floor, and go to the pub. When you get back, half slam the door shut, and roar ~ "Wow, I feel sexy!" There will be an instant sound of snoring from the bedroom.
So there you have it, skis all waxed, a good night out at the pub, and you are in no trouble.
It's a result, innit!
Bandit raised the point about P tex falling out. I once watched a guy do a repair, and have used the same method since. Go round the edges of the gouge and undercut. I have used a wood chisel for this. Then warm the ski, and the candle should get into the undercut. Ensure that the undercut at the raer of the gouge, (towards the back of the ski), is sound. This takes the most ground pressure.
Waxing. This happened at the same time as my Austrian carpet boot inner soles. I cut a piece of metal tube, about 20mm OD, and about 3mm wall thickness. This was cut to ski width, at the widest. Get a nut and bolt, about half an inch longer, pass through the tube, so as to be a good rolling fit. Make a metal fork that captures the tube, when the bolt is passed through the fork and the tube. The narrow end of the fork is forged into a handle. I used a file handle. So effectively, you now have a roller.
Put the roller tube onto the hotplate on your kitchen hob. Then roll the wax onto the ski, in one quick pass. No need to scrape, it's a perfect finish.
Then scrape the worst of the wax up off the kitchen floor, and go to the pub. When you get back, half slam the door shut, and roar ~ "Wow, I feel sexy!" There will be an instant sound of snoring from the bedroom.
So there you have it, skis all waxed, a good night out at the pub, and you are in no trouble.
It's a result, innit!
Topic last updated on 18-February-2009 at 23:18