Messages posted by : Trencher
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My "on the cheap" boot warmer consist of an large insulated freezer bag, a towel and one of those corn filled heat pads that you microwave. The boots go in the bag facing each other and the hot corn bag (wrapped in the towel goes between the fronts of the boots. I normally carve the best of the cord on an alpine board and a skwal for two or three hours befor swithing to skis. Even after three hours of sitting in a cold car, the ski boots are still nice warm and easy to get on.
Trencher |
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Can I add another smart thing
Spend your lift time observing others. Look for the skiers that make it look easy and natural. They likely have good technique. Look for detail. Stance, timing, angulation (how they bend sideways at the waist), how they rise and lower through the turns. how much they flex/extend thier legs, where are thier arms. Then do a run trying to copy them and exaggerate thier movements, or at least one aspect. Just thought of another, related to above... Never worry about looking a little foolish trying something new. The good skiers will know you are trying. Only the posers will not understand. Trencher |
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One thing that seems to make my recovering injuries much happier is to apply a heat pad/pack befor even warming up excercises and stretching.
Trencher |
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Skis have changed a lot in the last five years. There are some great all round skis that will keep you afloat in powder and carve like a slalom racer. Buying a pair on recomendation or by reading a few reviews is going to be a risky bussiness. You may need to update your ski skills as techniques have also changed.
A good idea might be to talk to the ski school at your destination, explain your expectations and see what they recommend you rent for a few update lessons. When you have tried some of the newer skis out, you could then buy in the sales at the end of the season (assuming you're just going on one ski trip). You could buy your boots befor you go. That would be a great investment and a pair of well fitted boots would allow you to compare skis much better. There are some recent threads on buying boots on this forum. Hope that helps Trencher |
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Actually, I live in Minnesota, though I am British. Small hills, but 10mins from front door to riding up on a chair is ample compensation. Midwest packed powder (ice to most people) is great for carving.
When I say spin, I mean flat spinning 360s on the snow. It's pretty effortless on a snowboard, but I find it much harder on skis. I understand the body movement rotational concepts part, but I often catch an edge. Snowboards are much easier because you can twist/torque the board with your feet. Having said that I can spin verely well on a Skwall which can't be torqued like a board. I also probably don't spend enough time practicing other stuff (like flat spins) because I like to carve too much. Trencher |
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Thanks powderhound, I like it, similar to what I have tried in the past.
Thanks pavelski, that's a very comprehensive answer and what I was afraid of - no shortcuts. I generally only carve on skis, but would like to instruct, meaning a lot more time with the skis flat on the snow. I know when I spin, I have to hold my legs a little unnaturally to stop edges catching. So I want to rule "cuff adjustment" out as the problem. I guess I'll have to go through the pavelski process. Thanks again for the detail. Trencher |
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Anyone have a simple method for setting up boot cant ?.
Trencher |
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I don't know the answer to your specific question, but Atomics seem to work, ie 76mm brake for 76mm waist. You can always tweek a break a little wider. It's only a piece of wire.
Trencher |
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