Head Edge 11 cuff adjustment?

leave the plumb bob in the cupboard and find a willing assistant :D

you need to remove the liner from the boot and stand in the empty shells [with the footbeds in side] the idea for the shaft alignment adjustment on boots is to line the cuff up to the shape of your lower leg, what you need to do is stand in your neutral ski stance looking straight ahead then have someone adjust the cuff screws [as shown in macskis picture] so that the gap either side of your leg in the shell is equal... a lot of the time this will be enough, however if it is not enough then full canting is the next step

canting can be either internal or external and the effects are very different, adding shims under the footbed will affect the relationship between the foot and the ankle [the sub talar joint for the techys out there] external canting is achieved by either inserting wedges between the ski and the binding ...not possible on some modern integrated systems or by planing the soles of the boot or building up with angled plates at the set angle.[ i will have a palner in the next few months when the engineer has finished milling it!] the effect of external canting is to shif joints above the top of the boot ie knee and hip...see below

some people are not cantable due to lack of available joint space range of motion at the knee or hip, this is why the plumb bob can give really whacky readings for some folk, assessment should be carried out using a rocker bottomed device [cant co rocker or similar] which can simulate what will happen to your skis when you stand on the snow. checking with the plumb bob is great to see if the original assessment makes sense. for the "uncantable" people the solution is to fill the gaps to give a flat ski to stand on, this means that they will always be either knock kneed or bow legged but the ski will run flat on the snow

good luck, enjoy


hows that for an opening post )

Good effort :wink: :lol:

Good to have you aboard CEM

Great explanation cem.

Trencher