Boot canting

Anyone have a simple method for setting up boot cant ?.

Trencher

About 15 years ago we used to stand on a coffee table (wearing ski boots - don't do this at home, or at your mum's house) with feet the appropriate distance apart, and adjust the cant until the boot sole was flat on the table and there was even pressure inside either side of the boot.

Not sure how scientific that was but it seemed to work for us... 8)

There are two options for boot adjustment.
Cuff option which is done by loosening two screws of ski boots near ankle. I will provide this option to you.

The second which deals with "canting",,, that is modifying the ski boot sole interface with binding, is more radical and for racing. I will not post this on public site due to legal problems, however , based on your replies to queries you seem to know your stuff, so I will send you private message with the boot canting sole option!

Before you do any changes, get sole orthotics!!!

Steps for ski boot collar adjustment.

1. Measure the lateral space at the toe section of the boot in order to find the mid-point! This is the portion of the boot which will touch the front binding. The sole extension past toe area. Draw line on this part of the boot with felt marker.

2. Put on shorts.

3. Mark knees at mid point with felt marker.

4. Put on boots in a level flat hard surface. Not on carpet! Do not put on buckles!

5. Place skis on hard surface and place boots on bindings.Place buckles on first (easiest) position.

6. Let friend take a plumb line ( string and weight) such as used by masons and place string at mid point mark on your knee.If you do not have correct plumb line, just get string and large , heavy nail. Tie string to nail,,voila!!


7. Allow weight at end of string to hang just above that mark you made on ski boots while you flex boots forward.

8. Flex boots forward slowly. Watch the weight at end of line. If you have real good plumb line , the weight has a pointer! This pointer should be on the medial side ( inner side) of the maker you made on the boot.

The very best position for me ( I stress for me) is 8 mm medial of the center line on boot!

The pointer should NEVER be on the lateral side of the marked line. On the "outside" of the line.If this is the case you "risk" skiing on the outside edge of your ski. You will have a ski that will want to turn "the othe way"!

In 80% of cases, no adjustment should be made. Just then tighthen screws!

PS.
Remember 10 small incremental adjustments are better than one major change!

Flex several times the boots, then let friend "move"cuff inward or outward while viewing the pointer.The boot adjustmen screws have a serrated interplay system within the boot so you must loosen screws a lot to play with cuff!
Once pointer is correctly positioned, tighthen screws. May I suggest a drop of nail polish on screws ( it is great nut-lock)!

Once right boot is done,,,do left boot!


One condition BEFORE all this is done.
get Orthotics placed in boots!

You can not do proper cuff adjustments without orthotics!!!

Notice I did not speak of "canting" but of cuff adjustments.

Canting to the race technicians means modifying the interplay between the boot sole and binding and ski! This may be done by destructive methods ( no turning back here) or addictive methods.
It is a very controversial issue since many racers have many ways to do this. I can forward you all data privately since some ski binding companies will not honor warrenty if "modifications" are done.

Plus I do not want some parent to "sue" me for having told 15 year old son how to cant boots and then he goes off cliff in St. Moritz!!!

A suggestion.
Skiers should keep a log of all "modifications" they make on skis and boots, so that once a "correct" setting is found, you can use this as reference for future boots and skis!

Thanks powderhound, I like it, similar to what I have tried in the past.

Thanks pavelski, that's a very comprehensive answer and what I was afraid of - no shortcuts.
I generally only carve on skis, but would like to instruct, meaning a lot more time with the skis flat on the snow. I know when I spin, I have to hold my legs a little unnaturally to stop edges catching. So I want to rule "cuff adjustment" out as the problem.
I guess I'll have to go through the pavelski process. Thanks again for the detail.

Trencher

I assume you are from England and the British ski instructors teaching guide gets skiers off "flat" skiing as soon as possible!

I get beginner skiers to "set and edge" from the very first class, during the traverses phase of the skiing. To me it is essential to have skiers "ride" rails just to avoid the wandering of the skis.It also places skier in the forward positive position rather than "leaning" back due to fear.

Could you eleborate on the "spinning" phase?

Actually, I live in Minnesota, though I am British. Small hills, but 10mins from front door to riding up on a chair is ample compensation. Midwest packed powder (ice to most people) is great for carving.

When I say spin, I mean flat spinning 360s on the snow. It's pretty effortless on a snowboard, but I find it much harder on skis. I understand the body movement rotational concepts part, but I often catch an edge. Snowboards are much easier because you can twist/torque the board with your feet. Having said that I can spin verely well on a Skwall which can't be torqued like a board. I also probably don't spend enough time practicing other stuff (like flat spins) because I like to carve too much.

Trencher