ADVICE NEEDED - DOUBLE CANTING ON HEAD CHALLENGER 110 BOOTS

I've just purchased online a pair of 2014 HEAD Challenger 110 boots
These boots are stated in the current HEAD catalogue as having double canting adjustment of the cuffs!
There appears to be only canting adjustment on one side. The inside has only has a blck plastic rivet cover - turning this does nothing.
Does anyone have any experience with this issue :?:?
There appears to be no contact details on HEAD website for anything other than warranty issues!! :wink:

The Head Challenger is a new model, so your chances of finding someone who also has a pair are pretty slim. If I were you I would contact the local Head distributor http://www.head.com/ski/contacts/?region=eu

How are you going to mold the liners? As part of the fitting process the liners in these boots are heat molded to your feet.

Hunter,
Canting,,true boot cant is done with not just those screws on cuff side.

Let me help you with what you have.

First get some support material.

A pair of shorts
A felt marker
a plumb line ( yes a plumb line used by stone masons or brick layers )

Once you have all that, get a friend to help you.

Put on those shorts.

With felt marker draw a vertical 5 cm. line on the center of both knees.

Loosen those side screws on boots.

Put on boots and stand on flat surface with buckles on first "soft" position.

Flex knees forward several times.

While you are in this forward flex position (as if you are skiing ) have your friend take the plumb line, place string on that black line you drew on you knees , so that plumb is just above your boot shell ( near toe area ).

If he /she observes carefully, there is a line at the center of the boot shell just where toes area and where boot shell meets binding.

Note where the plumb is relative to this line( it usually has a pointer ).

If plumb is lateral ( ie to the right of that boot shell line ) you must move cuff INSIDE to medial side. This is done by RAISING out side boot shell screw.

The plumb pointer should be at center line of boot shell or 3 - 4 mm. INSIDE that line ( medial to line).

I hope I explained this procedure clearly.

Think,,,you use the inside edge of ski thus pressure should be in the inside of that boot mid point line. Pressure on the BIG toe area,,,,!
Never on the smallest toes area.

The cuff adjustments allows skiers to align leg ( knee) with skis.

If you have major issues with knees or legs please go see a qualified boot fitter.

If you wish a much better presentation of this "adjustment" may I suggest, Ron LeMaster's Book. There is a complete chapter on boot adjustment.

Thanks swingbeep for the video. I had heard that the boots needed to go into an oven!
You wouldn't know what the max temperature would be would you?
I've taken you're advice regarding the canting.

Afraid not, the procedure is not as simple as the video makes out. The boot fitter first pads any pressure points, places toe caps over the toes, puts the skiers sock back on and then places the feet in foot shaped plastic bags to make getting into the boot easier.

IMO the process Pavelski describes is unnecessarily complicated. A boot fitter normally just take the liners out of the shells place the footbeds centrally in the empty shells ask the customer to stand on the footbeds and then molds the boots to the feet.


The fitter then buckles the boots and adjusts the cuffs until the legs are central.
I have found that loosening the screws and flexing forward a few times automatically centres the cuffs on boots fitted with eccentric alignment devices.

Cuff alignment is only one part of ski boot setup; ideally the foot should first be supported using a decent footbed, then the boot / binding ramp angles should be looked at followed by forward lean, then cuff alignment and finally canting.

As you bought the boots online I suggest you do a shell check to make sure that they are not too big, before doing any of this.

hunterskiOZ wrote:Thanks swingbeep for the video. I had heard that the boots needed to go into an oven!
You wouldn't know what the max temperature would be would you?
I've taken you're advice regarding the canting.

I think it needs to be gas mark 6 for 20 mins but be sure to peirce the film lid in several places.

I think Snapzzz has it a bit high, personally I would go for 5 and probably remove the film for the last 5 minutes you ensure the heat really gets in.

Dont forget the salt if you want it crispy around the outside :)