http://www.rospa.com/drivertraining/winter/index.htm
Some good advice there I think. In addition to the stuff they suggest I also have :
Driving around today is really hard, the roads into our village are not treated and the one I was using this morning isn't cleared either. To echo what they say at ROSPA, getting into the right gear is crucial, once you're on an awkward slope changing gear is pretty hard as you can momentarily lose traction especially trying to change down. I find the rev' limiter in second is high enough I can drive in second on most any slope.
Another tip is not to panic too much if you do skid a bit, it's going to happen and you want to avoid stepping of the gas when it does, if anything a bit more gas and keeping power to wheels can rescue you. Within reason of course, don't accelerate off a cliff. Also, slowing down going up a hill is a bad idea, slow enough and you'll go backwards, a lot of the time momentum is your friend :D
No country on mainland Europe requires you to have chains or winter tyres but individual routes can be closed to people without them, that's the same in all countries (including the UK). Winter tires are fantastic and worth having but you always need chains, winter tyres won't get you quite everywhere. You can gamble on not having them but you may find you miss your flight home :)
Fitting chains isn't so awkward, if you've got your own then a bit of practise helps. You absolutely have to be able to fit chains where you find yourself, once the going gets difficult you may not be able to turn around and it is an offence to drive with chains on tarmac. Similarly, if you come to leave your accommodation at the top of the mountain then that's where you are and that's where you have to fit the chains.
Also, within reason, have some concern for the car behind, if they're fully equipped and not having problems it's polite to let them past, in fact it's a requirement in some places.
Or do what I'm about to do fetching Mrs Ise from the station and take a Subaru Imprezza with winter tyres on it :D