best way to wax (the board, not yourself :D) and tip protectors??

hey all,

just got me board delivered. its been through some ruff stuff but on closer inspection it dosent seam to bad, not deep gauges etc and some good elfin bindings. The main thing is the tail and tip are quite damaged but i have seen these tip protectors, so anyone know where to get them from? was thinking of putting some hammerite on the tips to stop the water getting to the wood then put the protectors on so it still looks good because the protectors should cover the damage. some of the laminate is missing on the edges of the board on top, only small parts (but hey, what did i expect for £10.50 :D ) plus im only going to be falling over on it!! lol

next question is what is the way to wax it? i typed in board wax on ebay but there is so many different ones that come up so which one do i use?

thats about it for now, cantwait to get on the snow!!

cheers

TBH if you're a beginner I wouldn't wax until you're more confident. The last thing you need is a board running away with you.

Rubberised tips trap water in as well as protecting - so if the ends are damaged I wouldn't recommend cos it may hasten delamination.

My advice (especially for a tenner) would be not to worry, have fun on it, and when it's knacked or doesn't feel good enough any more - then it's time to move on. Chances are it'll go far longer than you'd expect in its current condition...

Enjoy...

Repair the damage on the top sheet with two part epoxy from a diy/motor parts store.

From the description in the ebay auction, it sounds like this boards been used for rail grinding, so the edges are likely to be a mess. Get a medium diamond file and clean up the worst of the burrs. As you are just starting out, sharp edges are neither needed or desirable. However, reasonable edges in the middle part of the board are needed to hold a traverse.

Read the Pavelski ski tuning course (on this forum) and other stuff on the net for an idea of what waxing involves. If that looks a bit much and you just want to try the board at a snowdome or whatever, try this. Buy some all temp wax [gonna cost more than the board :lol: ] and rub it into the base until you have it all coated. Take a new green scouring pad (not the metal type) and rub the base length wise until you have an even finish and no wax is visable on the surface. This type of "cold" waxing is sometimes good for a couple hours use at most (unless you can generate some heat with that scouring pad)

Elfgin not Elfin bindings :wink:



Trencher

cheers both,
might give the waxing a miss then (it will leave me something to blame my bad boarding on lol) with the scouring pad way, you put the wax on then use a scrourer? opps, typeing error missed the 'g' and yep, thats the board! lol were you watching it then?

ski5d, i think your last word summed it up to be fair, enjoy... :D cant wait

cheers

edy wrote: yep, thats the board! lol were you watching it then?


cheers

No. Elfgin haven't made snowboard bindings for many years (or at least I haven't seen any around), so they don't come up on ebay often, making your board easy to find.

Make sure the boots you use don't have a problem with the pan head screws and washers that are needed to mount those bindings. Often you can feel the screw heads through the sole of the boots, which can be a little uncomfortable. on modern bindings the screws are recessed so are no problem. The straps on the bindings are likely to break from aging and use, so I would not rely on them for a day on the mountain if you are going away. Also, notice that you can see two inserts behind the front binding and none in front of the rear. That suggest that the bindings are set with with a foreward bias. Might be best to centre the bindings between the two sets of inserts to start with (bindings inserts are normally installed about 25-30mm behind [set back] the centre of the board]).

Trencher

My advice would be simply to get the board overhauled in the resort (about 30 EURO for waxing and having the edges done), I tend to do this on the second last night of my holiday, and make sure it gets well dried on the last night. This means it is in tip-top condition next time you go away.

As for repairing gouges, I did this myself and really enjoyed it. Takes a bit of practice to get the burning of the P-Tex right so it adheres, but you really cant go too far wrong as long as you have a very sharp blade to remove any excess I recommend a pack of these for the job..... http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=UTILITY&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=11-911&SDesc=5%2DPack+1991%26%23174%3B+Regular+Duty+Utility+Blade

My first board is suffering a bit from de-lamination on the front and back but is a long way from worrying about. With my newer board I carry a tube of superglue...not for any lasting repair, but it does a fine job of temporary waterproofing.

i might just get it done at the resort for that price but also, might just mess about on it instead of spending money lol but deffinetly will carry a tube of superglue. and will keep an eye on the bindings just incase.

cheers all

Wow! £10.50, you can't go wrong with that....hopefully! )

I'd advise you to go with what tino says, get the resort where you're going to have a go at it. They'll probably say it's not worth repairing, but it's your board and you want to play on it! Make sure you ask them to repair the tips so that it's water cannot penetrate the board, get the edges done and then waxed and that's all you really need to get going.

My advice in the future is to get your own tools, there is nothing more satisfing than maintaining/fixing your own board and you'll get to know just how you like it.